 The landscape here is a mixture of rolling green
hills, heather covered moors, and stands of fur trees. There's a
strange feeling in the air as if the spirits of days gone by are just
around the next bend of the road. This is the land of Mary, Queen of
Scots, the land of winding narrow roads and hillsides dotted with
fleecy grazing sheep. The small villages scattered about the
countryside have a painterly quality and even the sky has an eerie
light so often found in landscape paintings. This is neither England
nor Scotland but a vast area commonly referred to as the Borders.
The Borders covers an area of approximately 1800
square miles stretching from gentle valleys and rich farmlands to the
east to the purple heather covered moors and rolling hills to the west
right out to the picturesque Berwickshire coast. The Tweed River,
providing some of the best fishing in Scotland, meanders through its
center winding its way to the sea.
Fought over for hundreds of years by both the
Borders' families and with England, the area is now peaceful and
serene. The most exciting thing to happen today is a common Riding, an
event that's staged with sometimes hundreds of horseback riders to
commemorate ancient traditions of defense and to kindle horsemanship.
The area has not only spawned salmon and fresh trout
in its rivers and streams but famous men as well. Sir Walter Scott
took the traditional stories handed down from father to son and set
them down as literature. He did much of his writing by his beloved
Tweed River. On a more modern note, Neil Armstrong, the first man to
walk on the moon, also cane from Border country.
The Borders are best explored by rented car. Public
transport for visitors is difficult due to the termination of the
railroad here recently. Roads, though winding, are in excellent
condition and sparsely used. Sign posting is tops, but should you get
lost, the local citizens are more than delighted to help out.
Fortunately, you can get everywhere in the borders
in an hour or so. You might choose to use either the town of Selkirk
or Melrose as a touring base due to their central location, but you
can just as easily use Edinburgh. You may decide to use both, staying
several nights in the Borders at the Philipburn House Hotel (approx.
$45 per person with breakfast) in Sélkirk
or in a smaller bed and breakfast in Melrose (the Bon Accord Hotel,
$24 per person with breakfast) and the remainder in Edinburgh at the
Crest Hotel, located on the road to the Borders, but convenient to
downtown.
The Woolen Trail
 During your stay, you may wish to follow the
Borders Woolen Trail, a delightful drive through some of the best
towns--Peebles, Innerleithen, Wlkerburn, Galashiels, Selkirk, Hawick,
jedburgh, Kelso, and Melrose. Along the way you'll see all the facets
of the woolen trade which has made the Borders so famous. Stop into
woolen mills for a free tour (Peter Anderson Ltd. in Galashiels offers
tours Monday through Friday at 10:30 A.M. and 2 P.M. from April to
October) then browse through the piles of goods in their shops, all
sold at great values.
Let the charm of the countryside affect you as it
did Sir Walter Scott. Experience the peace and serenity of Melrose
Abbey and the adjacent Priorwood Gardens. Get caught up in the romance
of the Eildon Hills, where King Arthur and his knights lie in
enchanted sleep. You can almost feel the magic of Merlin!
Perhaps you'd like to take it slow and easy atop a
mare as you trot through quiet bridle paths, searching out old Roman
roads and deserted abbeys. There are sixteen horse centers to serve
you.
If you like to cycle, you'll find cycling rental
centers in all the major towns and the roads just right for leisurely
touring. Twelve hundred miles of roads crisscross forest and moors. Or
why not just get out and walk. Stand atop a cliff looking out at the
roaring surf near Eyetooth or wander along the banks of the Tweed.
If it's history your looking for, you'll find more
here than your time allows. There ate castles and more castles, from
the fortified to the romantic. You'll discover shattered ruins like
Fast Castle on the coast to elaborate mansions like Abbotsford, Sir
Walter Scott's house near Melrose. Don't forget to have tea in one of
the tea rooms here. You'll fall in love with the taste of Scottish
"Cannock," a sweet bread made with fruits and spices and
you'll get hooked on Scottish shortbread, served universally
throughout the region.
A Suggested Itinerary
A suggested tour for a week might start at
Peebles at the Tweeddale Museum, showing the history of the local area
(Mon.-Fri. 10-5 P.M., free). While you're there, walk by the river
until you come to Neidpath Castle, dramatically located above the
Tweed River. This is a good example of how a fortress was adapted to
civilized living in the 17th century. (Open Mon.-Sat. 10-l P.M. and
2-6 P.M., minimal charge)
After Peebles, head over to Galashiels to see the
woolen mills and shops. Here also is the Galashiels Museum and
Exhibition, which tells the story of the town and the woolen trade.
(Open Mon.-Sat. 9-5 P.M. Free).
Between Peebles and Galashiels, you'll find Traquair,
the oldest inhabited house in Scotland. Built in the 12th century,
Traquair's most famous visitor has been Mary Queen of Scots. Among the
relics on display are here rosary, crucifix, letters, and the cradle
in which her son, King James I, was rocked. The house is still lived
in by the Stuart family and offers a real insight into country living
in the Border country. In addition, you can visit the only licensed
brewery in a private house in Britain, buy samples of the brew, and
take in the craft shops on the estate. If you're lucky, Mary may come
back to greet you!
A short distance from Galashiels is Melrose with its
well-preserved abbey and nearby, Abbotsford, the home built by Sir
Walter Scott. (Open Mon.-Sat. 10-5 P.M.) Southeast of Melrose is
Jedburgh, where you'll find another finely preserved abbey. Mary,
Queen of Scots House is located here, also. The house tells the story
of the life of the tragic Queen, who visited here in 1566 (Open
Mon.-Sat. 10-12 & l-5,admission). Standing on the site of the
original castle in Jedburgh is the Jedburgh Jail, built in 1823, and
now home to the local history museum. It also contains displays on
prison life in the 19th century, featuring a restored prison kitchen,
cells, and gaoler's (jailer) office (Hours same as above).
From Jedburgh, you can either head for Eyemouth and
the coast, or travel north to Lauder to visit Thirlestane Castle and
the Border Country Life Museum. This castle is one of the finest
examples of 16th century baronial architecture, with magnificent rooms
featuring elaborate 17th century plaster ceiling decoration, a
traditional craft in Scotland. The south wing of the castle contains a
museum of Border Country Life, with displays of everyday items used
here. (Open Daily July and August from 2-5 P.M., except Saturdays;
admission).
The hills of the Borders are home to thousands of
sheep, whose wool is used to make a myriad of products. If you have
time, you may want to visit the new Collie and Sheep Dog Training
Center, located near the source of the Tweed River on Route A701
between Edinburgh and Moffat at the far western end of the Borders.
Geoff and Viv Billingham, professional shepherds and championship
trainers, will show you how they train their dogs to herd the sheep.
Also on the property is the smallest school in Scotland, last used in
the 1930's. (Open May through Oct. with three demonstrations each day;
admission $2)
After all this touring around, you may want to relax
for a couple of days at Stobo Castle Health Spa, near Peebles. This
luxurious mansion turned health spa offers all sorts of health
remedies, including massages, excellent food, exercise machines, a
golf course, and miles of walking trails. Here, the only decision
you'll have to make is whether to have a cup of coffee or a cup of
rose hip tea.
For more information, contact the Scottish Borders
Tourist Board. |
